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Skiing a Section of the Yukon Quest Trail

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

On a snowy Monday Tom, Remus, and I headed off to Chena Hotsprings to ski a section of the Yukon Quest trail. The quest had passed though this section of trail two days prior, and the “mini quest”, the Yukon Quest 300, had passed though the day before, so we anticipated the trail to be in pretty good shape and decided today would be a wonderful day to explore it. We skied about 23 miles, in about 8 hours or so including breaks. Not a parciularlly fast showing, as we were slowed by fresh snow and lots of overflow.
We joined the Yukon Quest trail where it leaves Chena Hotsprings road, and heads up the North Fork of the Chena River. In the first mile or so we skied past a number of small houses and vacation cabins and eventually the trail lost its road like feel.
Remus was happy to be joining us, and today I attempted to slow him down a bit by having him carry my down jacket and pants.

The trail had received about a inch to a inch and a half of fresh snow over night, and we were the first to travel the trail since the snow.

The fresh snow slowed us down a bit, but made for a smoother trail. The trail was a bit rough in sections, with a couple of large rocks fully exposed by the low snowfall. We need more snow pretty bad..

The day started snowy, gray, and overcast.

The day ended bright and sunny with a nice blue sky – quite a change.

There was quite a bit of wet overflow on the trail, which slowed us down a lot. We had two options – ski across, which keeps you pretty dry and is pretty fast but requires de-icing the skis after words, or to walk across, which is a bit risky as its hard to tell how hard the crust on the overflow is and if it can support your weight.

If the ice crust on the overflow is not strong enough to hold your weight, then you can end up plunging though and a bit wet – I stepped into overflow almost up to my knees twice. It was not all that cold, so having wet feet was not that big of a deal.

Walking though overflow also requires extensive boot de-icing efforts to get the toe bar free enough of ice to put the skis back on.

I tried wearing pellet bags on my feet and just walking across..

.. But quickly learned that its hard to hold up bags while carrying skis.  An obvious lesson, for sure.

The other option, to just ski straight across, is faster initially but frequently requires you to stop and de-ice your skis.  When the wet skis hit the nice dry snow, the snow generally sticks to your skis making them heavy and robbing them of any glide.   If you actually break though the crust with skis on, extricating yourself can be quite difficult.  On a trip last year Tom broke though some overflow and spent quite a bit of time standing in almost knee deep water trying to get out, and after finding he was trapped by skis getting suck under the ice, spent even more time trying to get them off.  Not pleasant…  I had not brought a ice scraper to de-ice my skis, and was forced to scrape ice off the bottom of my skis with a wax scraper, which was less than ideal.

This was a wonderful overflow refresher course for Tom and I, as the White Mountains 100 goes though several sections that can have large amounts of overflow.   In the past I have carried some light-ish Neos Overboots, which make overflow a snap – take your skis off, put the overboots on, and walk across.   I have not been bringing them of late, as they are light-ish, but not actually “light” – at around 2lbs they are almost as heavy as my sleeping bag.

The rest of the trail was quite fantasic – lots of wonderful views of the near by hills, and when the snow stopped, clear blue skies.  The trail is on a road for the first mile or so, then slowly winds up the North Fork of the Chena, passing numerous small cabins and inholdings, eventually reaching Rosebud summit.  We stopped a mile or so short of the base of the climb to the summit.

This area burned in the 2004 fire season, and most of the forest the trail passed though had been completely burned. We passed only a couple of sections where we passed though stands of unburned trees.

It was quite a fun way to spend a day (leaving out the overflow), and is enjoyable if you do not mind overflow all that much.

There were a number of interesting sights to see along the trail, including a “tree face”.

And a single snow shoe.   Hopefully the owner is not going to require it. Currently in this area snow shoes would be overkill, as the snow is not that deep, and one can get back by just walking though it.

A map of the route.

For more photos, please see my gallery:

Skiing a Section of the Quest trail

The Twins Go Skiing

Saturday, February 6th, 2010

While Nancy and Ms Marsh where off for a day ski, the twins decided that they must join in the fun and go skiing too. I bundled the twins up, put their ski boots on, and hustled them outside for a brief ski on the local trails.

I could only locate one set of ski poles, and at first the girls took turns.

After a while some short alder branches where pressed into service as ski poles. The branches where more popular than the actual ski poles, and we where back to swapping back and forth.

Molly even braved a short patch of ice on her skis.

It took about an hour for everyone to get tired and cold, and so we headed back inside for a warmup and snacks.

Fun was had by all!

Moved to WordPress

Saturday, February 6th, 2010

So,  I switched to WordPress due to some blogger making some changes.  Hopefully no one will notice any problems or interruptions…

Exploring the Bonnifield Trail

Monday, February 1st, 2010

Tom and I decided to spend a Monday exploring the Bonnifield Trail. The Bonnifield Trail is rumored to head south from Fairbanks to foothills of the Alaska Range and possibly to Blair Lakes and other interesting destinations. We where only interested in a fairly short ski, perhaps 30 miles or so out and back, so we set our goal on a small hill called Clear Creek Butte.
Our ski started at the end of South Cushman and I had more than a little trepidation leaving my truck there.. But things appear to have been cleaned up significantly since I was last in that area, and there was only one burned out car. There was still signs of the old times, including a burned up set of box springs and a number of appliances with a goodly number of bullet holes.. Hopefully the truck would be ok.. I stopped at a classic south cushman spot, complete with a burned and rusting box springs, broken bottle luminaries, and spent shell casings, for a couple of photos.

We skied out to the Tanana, then wandered around for a bit looking for the start of the trail. We ignored the most obvious starting point, the a wide trail blocked by a yellow gate with a blue tent in the middle, but eventually decided that must be it, and started down it.

The start of the Bonnifield was not what I expected – it is about 20 feet wide and straight.

Unfortunately there was not enough snow to cover all the grass, so the skiing was a bit slow.

For the first 7 miles the trail alternated between swamp and birch and poplar groves, but not to put too fine of a point on it, it was a little boring.

To liven up the trip, the military kindly left surprises in the woods for us, in the form of “Dudded Impacted Area” warning signs.

Tom was quite put out by the sign’s poor grammer and the use of “dudded” as a word. Never mind that the area is apparently littered with unexploded ordinance.
The only wildlife we saw was a moose with a large calf and a huge flock of ravens.

Eventually we came to a large intersection, where the trail headed off east off at an angle, and continued straight on. We elected to continue straight on, as the USGS topos have the trail continuing on straight, but a the trail heading off to the east had a large amount of traffic – perhaps a trail to explore in the future. The branch of the trail we continued had a much more promising character.

At this point, we ran into our only other trail users of the day, a posse of military contractors off on some mission of great importance. I chatted with them for a bit, and they told me about a tower on top of clear creek butte, which I was told, right ahead of me. Hmm, I was a bit confused at this point, as we had yet to cross Clear Creek, which is several miles before the butte. They zoomed off on their mission of great important, and we continued on our ski.

It turned out they where confusing Clear Creek Butte with a small hill right next to Clear Creek. Alas, they also confused left and right, and gave us instructions that got us a bit sidetracked for a while, but not too big of a deal, as it gave us some fun skiing on Clear Creek.

Once back on the trail, we headed up to the top of the small hill, and took at look at the tower.

The view from the tower would have been quite fantastic, given a clear day, but alas it was cloudy and overcast, so the view was somewhat limited.

The tower was quite interesting, and I am very curious what it was used for. The climb up was a bit hairy, especially when I realized the top rung of the ladder was held on by parashoot cord.
We wandered around for a while before getting back on the correct trail, as there are a lot of side trails heading off into the flats. Once back on the trail we headed off and skied a couple of more miles before arriving at Clear Creek Butte. The butte was a little anticlimactic, as we didn’t find any tower on it, or anything else interesting, but such is life. After a snack we headed back, and made it back out to the car before dark, hurray! I was very happy to see my truck was intact and without bullet holes and not on fire..

If anyone has any idea where the major side trail heading off to the east goes, or where all the traffic heading up and down clear creek goes to, I would love to know about it.

This area is definitely worth exploring, as it so close to town. With a bit more snow it would provide fantastic skiing. I think I would recommend parking someplace other than the end of South Cushman, if only for your peace of mind. It would add probably 6 miles each way to leave from the Pump House or Pikes, or 4 miles from the Chena Pump boat launch.

It is not a dog friendly ski, as there are lots of traps in the area, including ground sets, so keep the dogs at home!

A trip to Wolf Run

Sunday, January 24th, 2010


On a fine Sunday I escaped civilization with Nancy’s blessing (Nancy is the world’s most understanding wife!), and joined Tom and Marsh off for a overnight trip in the White Mountains NRA. Our destination was Wolf Run cabin, about a 60 mile drive and 23 mile ski. We arrived at the parking lot and were welcomed by nippy -20f at the trail head but things warmed up quick as the sun rose. The trail into Wolf Run is a mix of rolling hills, black spruce spruce swamp, and open tussock fields. This was also the first trip in the White Mountains were I only saw human powered transport – we passed one biker and six or so skiers. Quite impressive!

The first 5 miles or so of the Colorado Creek Trail had fresh snow machine tracks, but these turned off the main trail and headed off in a different direction. We were left to follow the some super large “fat bike” tracks, apparently running the new Surly “Larry” tire.

We later learned this biker was the legendary Jeff Oatley on a 60 mile day trip, going from the Colorado Creek trail head to the Wickersham dome trail head. Wow!
The trail winds though black spruce forest that burned circa 2005, and is quite scenic. The trail has a completely different feel now after the burn and is much more open and has better views. On the downside it is now much more exposed and can drift in.

Just before the junction with the Big Bend trail, the trail crosses a huge wind blown open field, and the views really open up, with fantastic views of the White Mountains.

The wind can really blow though this section, and it was moderately windy on the way in, and calm on the way out. Fortunately it was very sunny when we travelled though this section and now that the sun is high enough on the horizon to give significant warmth, it was quite warm. From this point on there is a gradual decent to Beaver Creek. The trail has wonderful views of the surrounding hills and mountains – this area is super scenic. The trail crosses several huge wind blow tussock fields.

The tussock fields had small sastruga that were quite fun too ski on. Sometime this area gets really immense sastruga that are almost waist high, but alas we don’t have enough snow for that currently.

We eventually reached Beaver Creek, and we quickly learned why there had been little snow machine traffic up to this point – there was not much snow and the tussock tops were quite exposed, which would make for a bumpy and rough ride. After a two miles of roughish trail we reached the cabin. Hurrah! The previous visitors had left a huge wood supply, and we had a fire going quickly, and soon the cabin was toasty warm.
Tom had a bit of a binding failure, and had to come inside with the ski still attached.

After a large dinner and most of a turtle cake, we hit the sack for a early departure.

Morning arrived quickly, and after a large breakfast of pancakes, bacon, and the remainder of the turtle cake, we were off!

Remus got an extra special treat – kibble soaked in bacon drippings. Yum, yum!

The view from the cabin in the morning was spectacular!

The ski out was relitively uneventful, though a lot warmer as the it was fairly calm and very sunny. Spring is wonderful!

Pictures follow for the photo inclined..

Snack time on the trail:

Wolf Run cabin, in the glow of the sunrise:

It was really strange to follow bike tracks for most of the ski in. I don’t believe I have ever done that before.. After a while one of my legs started getting strangely sore, which eventually realized was because I was skiing with one ski on the bike tracks, and one in the 1″ of fresh snow.. I then started switching back and forth, changing which ski was in the powder – much better!

Remus had a blast on this trip. Between running back and forth checking on the humans and checking out all the sents on the trail, he was a busy and happy dog.

I was happy to see even the super biker had to walk occasionally (but rarely – he is quite the biking juggernaut!).

The burned trees were very stark looking.

Tom took his new sled setup on this trip. It appeared
to work quite well for him, though it added a bit of drag. It worked well for Marsh too:

More photos here.