After riding and pushing our bikes from Ophir we finally arrived at Moose Creek cabin just as the drizzle started. Miron welcomed us in, and we tucked our bikes under the eaves to keep them dry. The day had been beautiful, warm with blue skies and sun, but much too warm for the new trail put in by the Iditarod Trail breakers to set up. As we dried off in the cabin and cleaned up the nests squirrels had made on the bunks, the drizzle turned up a notch into intermittent rain. Miron was planning on heading out at 2 am, but Jamie, Bill, and I agreed to get up at 7 am then head out – but to go back to bed if it was still raining. Morning came, and I could hear the rain on the metal roof of the cabin. I stuck my head outside, and it was raining. Not hard rain, but enough to be pretty miserable. Back to bed, we went, tucked back into our -40f bags.. The glorious life on the Iditarod trail!
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Like everyone, Covid had cramped my adventure time the last few years. After riding my bike to Nome in 2018 I had thought I was done with the Iditarod trail. I signed up in 2022 to go to McGrath as a spur-of-the-moment thing and really had a wonderful experience. When signup time came up again I was feeling like I hadn’t had any “real adventures” lately, so signed up for Nome – if nothing else it would be a good, long adventure and I was sure to have fun at least!
And so on a warm, sunny mid-afternoon, I found myself at Knik Lake with nearly a hundred other people. The first part of the race is a bit of a maze, with so many options that mostly all look not very good, so after texting (aka bothering) Andy P. of Seeing Double Sled Dog Racing about the best route (as he lives in trains in the area), I just decided to follow him. He threatened to make me sign a waiver in case he got us all lost, but I escaped without any paperwork as Andy led a group of us to the first checkpoint. As we neared the first checkpoint I noticed there was only one set of tire tracks ahead of us, and they were an unusual tread design – odd! We arrived at the first checkpoint only to discover we were in the lead, with the fast guys Miron and Tyson right behind us. I felt a bit bad being ahead of the fast guys, as they had taken a much longer and hillier route and ended up behind, alas. Local knowledge for the win, thanks for getting us there Andy!
After chatting a bit, and having some snacks we left and headed to Yentna Station where I had a grilled cheese sandwich and a bowl of soup, and then on to Bentalit Lodge the official second checkpoint.
I had never been to Bentalit before, and wow, that place is nice – and huge! I got a room, a hamburger, and lots of other things to eat. In the early hours of the morning, I headed out again, enjoying the fast firm trail to Skwenta, yay! I said hi to Cindy at Skwenta, and lunch then moved on. The trail stayed awesome, and I took a mix of the traditional route and the ice road, making a great time to Finger Lake. Passing through Shell Lake was a bit sad, with a big empty hole where Shell Lake Lodge used to be.
When I arrived at Finger Lake my insides were a bit unhappy, and I was very excited to go use the outhouse. Yay for modern comforts, hah! The very friendly volunteers were cleaning a very burned pan, it turns out they had only arrived recently, and had been delayed by the weather.
The leaders had passed through before they were there, missed their drop bags, and just had frozen burritos. Fast people troubles, must be hard, hah!
The trail was still awesome, so after restocking I headed out and had a great ride to Puntilla Lake with Tom M. and Peter D. Puntilla was as nice as always, and the newish bunkhouse is so awesome. As I arrived John “Faster than the dogs” L and Tim B were heading out and said something about staying ahead of the storm. Hmm, “storm?” I thought, then I tried to get some sleep. My insides didn’t cooperate, and I made lots and lots of visits to the outhouse. My body was less than happy with something I ate, and that made it hard to sleep. After one of the trips back from the outhouse it started to snow, and after noticing folks were awake, Justin, Spensor, Tom, Peter, and I headed out. It was pretty calm, but I warned everyone it could be pretty windy up in the open area before Rainy Pass. That turned out to be not true, the weather was great, warm, with a bit of wind. The trail was a blown-in though. My insides were still quite unhappy, and I spent most of the way to Rohn trying not to go the bathroom, though I had to twice in open areas in blowing snow which was super awkward. Sigh. Fortunately, the riding was pretty good as I was slow enough the rest of the group pulled away and disappeared into the distance, leaving me to ride in the nice trail they broke out for me. And to jump off the trail when nature’s calls stopped going to voicemail and had to be answered.
I arrived in Rohn, where my insides and I finally came to an agreement on how happy we should be (happy!) and I crashed and got nearly 8 hours of sleep. The rest of the group I had been riding with headed out after a few hours, pushed on by Justin. I was amused to hear Justin rallying folks by saying “I haven’t suffered enough” and pointing out it was pretty warm out so biving wasn’t a problem. Which was a good point, as it was in the 20s, so warm! I had the whole place to myself until Harm and Jamie H. showed up. Jamie alas, had broken one of his boa laces on his fancy boots, confirming all my fears about those laces.
I left Rohn by myself, and had a wonderful ride, all invigorated by all the sleep I had gotten – so much sleep! The trail was mostly good, though it was blown in sections, and I had been warned that the leaders were still not finished when I left Rohn, so obviously things were not fast.
I was enjoying things right up until I broke my seat post near Bear Creek Cabin. I had been using a suspension seatpost that was oh-so comfortable, and on one of the deeper ruts left by Irondog I came down a bit too hard, and the post snapped.
There was a bit of cursing, but then I made peace with it – obviously, it must get slow at some point ahead of me, so I can just walk, no big deal, right? I texted my wife Nancy who started tracking down a new seatpost for me.
Shortly after that Adrien D. and his helper, John (maybe?) came by on their way to Rohn and gave me some Fireball, and we chatted for a bit.
After that, it was a long slow walk with a bit of riding to Nikolai.
I stopped briefly to heat water and make dinner, but otherwise just kept moving. I arrived in Nikolai just before Tom, Justin, Spenser, and Peter left. I had the place to myself! Since at this point, I was in no hurry, and not wanting to spend a week in McGrath I decided to get some sleep and head out in the evening. I told myself since the checkpoint folks were saying it took Tyson (the winner of the short race) nearly 24 hours to get to the finish, it didn’t matter when I left, as I would be riding half it in the dark anyway.
**This turned out to be wrong, looking at the tracker now, Tyson left at 11 pm and arrived at 4 pm – way less than 24 hours11**
After chatting a bunch with the folks staffing the Nikolai checkpoint, John and Brian (I think?), I crashed and got nearly 10 hours of sleep.
At 5 pm I headed out, and I arrived just before sunrise, riding and pushing mostly in the dark, hah! The trail was a mix of ridable, and walking. It would have been much more ridable with a seatpost, but I wasn’t miserable and enjoyed the ride!
McGrath was a bit of a madhouse. The finish is now at an old lodge, and it is big, but there are so many people doing it these days so it gets very crowded. I had been worried that I would get stuck for a long time in McGrath, as the southern route doesn’t see any traffic normally outside the dog race. The forced break was good in some ways, as it allowed my new seatpost to arrive, thanks to Nancy, Jeff O, and the wonderful folks at Speedway Cycles. Thanks, guys!
Three days later, Myron G, Bill F, Jamie H, and I headed out mid-day, with some assurance there was going to be a trail at least as far as Ophir. Just as we are leaving McGrath we saw Chet F. unloading a plane, and we chatted for a bit. Chet is a skier who has done the ITI several times and was headed to Ophir to help run the checkpoint. He was heading there later today, and we left with an extra bounce in our pedaling knowing a friendly face awaited us.
The ride to Ophir was fun, though things got a bit soft after the last house on the top of the hill after Takotna.
By 10 pm we were in Ophir, where we were welcomed in, fed, and enjoyed the heated wall tents set up for the mushers. Alas, there was no trail after Ophir, so we spent the day helping the Iditarod checkpoint staff set things up. It was great talking to everyone and getting a chance to catch up with Chet. In the late afternoon, the Iditarod trail breakers passed though, and there was finally a trail!
In the evening they fed us again (BBQ, it was fantastic!), and the next morning we set out early. Chet joined us for a brief ski, and we headed out into a warm morning, under clear skies and a bright moon. Myron G zoomed off like the fast guy he is, and I didn’t expect to see him again.
The trail was great, and we made good time to the first shelter cabin.. Then we were walking. The temps had warmed up to near freezing, and the fresh trail was a soupy, unconsolidated mess. So we walked, and for the rest of the day we rode a bit when the trail was in the trees, and sheltered from the sun, but in the open areas, it was soft and squishy.
Mid-day Myron came by, apparently, he stopped at the first cabin hoping the trail would set up. He was riding a lot more than we were, as we were pretty much not even trying when it was soft, and soon disappeared off into the distance. We had several groups of snowmachiners pass by, including one couple on their way to Point Hope, which sounded like an amazing trip.
By evening it was lightly raining on and off, and we finally pulled into a very warm Moose Creek cabin and were welcomed by Myron. After a bit of cleaning we settled in. I said we should get up at 7am and check to see if it was raining, as our weather forecasting friend, Ed Plumb, said rain was in the forecast. Sure enough, just as I went to bed there was the sound of rain on the metal roof..
Myron took off in the early AM hours, and when we got up to check to see if it was raining, it was definitely raining, so we went back to bed. It finally stopped raining mid-afternoon so we headed out for a bit of slog to Iditarod.
We arrived in the early evening, having enjoyed a long walk pushing our bikes with the occasional post hole into knee-deep snow in temperatures slightly above freezing.
The Iditarod folks were welcoming, and set us up in a small arctic oven tent complete with a propane-powered heater – so deluxe!!
We resupplied, wading through the giant pile of huge trash bags the race organizers had left for us to find our stuff and hit the stack. In the morning I had a cup of coffee from the Iditarod dog race staff, and we hit the road. The trail was now an iron-hard sidewalk of fast riding – so hard, so fast!
All that wet snow had frozen super hard, and we had the best trail conditions I have ever seen – so firm, so fast!
We zoomed on to Shageluk, and were welcomed into town by Chevy Roach (https://www.facebook.com/roachfamilylbz/) and family, who opened their store where we got pizza, ice cream, and other stuff, then put us up in a small house, it was fantastic! Later I learned they are famous, and have their own reality show as part of life below zero. In the morning we were on the trail again, heading through Anvik, Grayling, and eventually stopping for the night 20 miles down the trail past Grayling. In Anvik I had pudding packs which Bill made fun of me for, but I love those things on the trail, and in Grayling there was a brief panic when I accidentally broke the Inreach app on my phone, requiring me to beg a wifi connection briefly. We also stopped at Shirley Clarke’s and had lunch. Shirley is quite a character and an amazing cook!
In the morning we zoomed on to Eagle Island, where we saw Dan of Dewclaw stopped with his dogs and I said hi to some of my dog Eddy’s siblings.
Dan looked happy, more so than some of the other mushers we saw. We were now in the mix with the mushers and saw mushers nearly constantly until we arrived in Nome. After Eagle Island we rode on to Kaltag, doing the whole section of the Yukon river in 32 hours, which is amazing. The next day we rode to Unalakleet.
I love that section of the trail, as the transition from Interior Alaska to the coast is so stark, and it really feels like I have gone from one world to another. The people on the trail change as well, with a lot more locals using the trail system. I bumped into a young man with a seal skin hat at Old Woman cabin, and when I complimented him on his great hat he said his grandma made it for him.
Such a different world, and it is so neat to share it with the locals! We spent the night at Peace on Earth pizza, crashing on the floor after eating lots of pizza, and then having more Pizza for dinner.
Brent at Peace on Earth is a wonderful person! The next day we were texted by Jeff O warning us about a big storm system coming in, so we pressed on to Kaltag, hoping to arrive just before the storm hit, but instead the storm hit when we were still a ways out, slowing us down to a crawl at a few points. Otherwise, the conditions were fantastic though – so firm, so fast!
When we arrived at Kaltag we were let into the school, where we crashed for nearly 12 hours. The next day we rode from Kaltag to White Mountain, stopping in Elim and in Golvin.
We were met in Golvin by a small group who invited us into the school and served us dinner. Grilled cheese sandwiches with moose – so yummy, and so welcoming! I was really excited to meet folks from Golvin, as the other three times I have passed through there I have not seen anyone.
The evening we spent with Jack and his family, with his son Liam cooking us a fantastic dinner. Then the next day we rode into Nome, stopping briefly for burgers at Safety, then finished a few minutes before the musher Michael Williams Jr from Aniak.
Cute “dropped” dog at Safety who was living the best life, pets and hamburgers from a constant stream of Iditarod tour groups. He belongs to a Fairbanks musher, so it was great to see someone from home, ha!
We had a surprise encounter with Jeff O and Heather B in the hills outside Topkok Jeff and Heather are friends from Fairbanks, and both current ITI record holders – Jeff for the northern route to Nome and Heather has the woman’s record to McGrath. They are very good friends with Jamie and were super excited to see us. And of course, us to see them. They had been planning to ride to Kaltag from Nome but the various storms had pinned them down, gradually reducing their goals to eventually Shagtoolik, where they flew back to Nome. I thanked Jeff for helping me get a Seatpost, which he poh-pooped, but he was a huge help in Nancy getting me a new post.
When we finished in Nome, Jodie Bailey of Dewclaw met us at the finish, handing me pizza, bananas, and a huge thing of M&Ms. So appreciated!
Bill, Jamie, and I spent the next few days hanging out in Nome, enjoying the sights, and watching the last few mushers come in. At that point, I was pretty worn out socially and needed some people free time, but I survived. My friends Sue and Glen were out of town, but they generously allowed us to crash at their house with Egor “the very chatty” house sitter. Sue is a very talkative person, so I was a bit worried about someone Sue would describe as ‘very chatty” but Egor turned out to be a very interested miner from the Lake Baikal region. Thanks, Glen and Sue!
I would like to thank my family Nancy, Molly, and Lizzy for letting me disappear on this adventure for nearly a month – you guys rock. Molly also edited this blog post, with lots of helpful and constructive criticism. Better than Lizzy, at least, who told me I write in a very simplistic and childish manner -hah!
I don’t think I am going to do the whole Nome route again – it is really time-consuming and only parts are worthwhile. For segments I felt like I was holding the fast forward button, just burning time in the middle of no where with not much to gain. Spending life in “fast forward” spinning my wheels just to get to a place worth visiting doesn’t seem like a good use of my time… I might do sections again – Kaltag to Nome, and Ophir to Shageluk are really worth doing!
