Posts Tagged ‘packrafting’

A weekend with the family with a hike and float

Sunday, May 30th, 2010

On a super hot and dry day, the twins and I set off for Nome Creek campground. The plan was for Nancy to bike the 80 miles or so to the Campground while the Twins and I would drive. Later in the day another family along with Tom and Ms Marsh would join us. The drive out was fantastic, with a little smoke near Fairbanks which quickly cleared out as we left town. The twins snoozed the ride away, and we passed Nancy biking along at mile 50 or so. After reaching the camp ground the woke the twins up, and after a little grumbling about the rude awaking, they set off to explore the nearby sandbars.

They had lots and lots of fun exploring the sand and gravel, throwing rocks in the water, and other fun games.

After a couple of hours Nancy arrived and we all spend the afternoon together hanging out on the sandbars enjoying the sun. Eventually we were joined by the additional family and we all hung out having fun and enjoying the fine afternoon. After a dinner of pasta and cheese (a favourite of the twins) everyone hit the sack. Late in the evening Ms Marsh and Tom arrived and joined our encampment. The next day was nice and clear, promising good weather for the float and hike I had planned for the next two days. The twins were quite excited to be camping and quickly got up to go play in the sandbar again, after having a quick breakfast.


The breakfast menu was melon and cereal – yum yum!

After a slow morning Ms Marsh, Tom, and I set off to float down Beaver Creek. leaving Nancy to drive home with the twins. Our plan was to hike out on the Summit Trail the following day.

The water was pretty low – the Nome Creek gauge said 2 to 2.5 ft – which is a about a foot to two feet lower than the other time I floated it. I was not how the low water levels would effect stuff, but it turned out to be fine, though very slow.

Our first sign that something was different was when we reached the confluance of Nome and Beaver Creeks – last time we floated this section there was a nice and fun eddy line where the creeks came together. This time around there was no eddy at all, and the junction was hardly noticeable.

Beaver Creek was still float-able at these water levels, just a bit slow. Shortly after the confluence Ms Marsh found a very out of place trail sign that by the mile markers should have been just outside Windy Gap cabin. However we are well upstream of any trails heading to Windy Gap, and the only trail upstream of us is a dead end trail heading to Richards Cabin. Tom was quick to point out that it was also misspelled. How it got here was a mystery, so I decided to haul it out to Borealis and leave it there for BLM to ponder.

The sign had the added advantage of preventing Ms Marsh and Tom from playing bumper cars with me as they were quite worried about it’s not so sharp edges.

The float was quite a bit slower than when we did it last year – I think it took 9 hours total last year, and this year it took around 12, even though we took fewer breaks. There was quite a bit of mellow floating, bobbing along..

This was not all bad – I got to enjoy some mellow floating and enjoyed a fair bit of recliner time.

We ran into a few small rain storms and a fair bit of distant thunder, but nothing too intense.

We eventually reached Borealis, our takeout spot, and had dinner in the cabin and camped out nearby. In the morning we crossed Beaver Creek and started our hike out.

The hike begins on some very dilapidated board walk and then continues on the winter trail up to the summit trail. Last time I hiked this in the summer I noticed that the board walk appears to continue a ways after the winter trail turns off. I decided to check out the board walk and was surprised to see it continued for a fair bit and cut a bit of the tossuc slogging winter trail section of the hike.

Alas, after crossing the slue the board walk goes away and we were back walking on the tussocky winter trail.
On our hike up the Summit Trail Tom found several reminders of our winter adventures – he found a single stick of swix extra blue, and a White Mountains fuel tag.

After a shortish slog we reached the fine hiking of the Summit Trail – Tom was suitably excited.

The rest of the hike out was fantastic – the trail had great views and is in very good shape. the older sections of board walk had a large number of exposed nails which made things a bit treacherous at times.

The last section of trail was a bit of a mud fest. The trail used to look like this:

Now it looks like this:

Nancy, the twins, and I hiked it when BLM was revamping the trail with an assembly line of small bobcat like tractors.

At the time I had stopped to talk to the trail crew for a while, and they said the plan was to use “ditch and elevate” to remove the board-walk and have the trail dry in the summer and groomable in the winter. Its looking like a bit of a failure, as its a bit of a muddy mess now, in the driest spring I have experienced. Hopefully BLM will get the trail sorted out and have it reach some sort of drier state.

Once past the mud things went by quickly and soon we were at the parking lot, and before we knew it at Hilltop having burgers. Yum! Yum! The hike was fantastic, as was the float, though it would be a bit better to have done it with slightly faster water. Camping with the twins added extra spice and added a bit of extra spice – and of course fun was had by all!


A map:

More photos:

Beaver Creek-Summit Trail float hike

The First Float of the Year

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

Rumor had it that the Chena was now floatable, so Tom, Ms Marsh, and I headed out to float from 3rd bridge to 1st bridge. The float was wonderful, the Chena was ice free, and fun was had by all.

We put in at 3rd bridge, and we quickly zoomed down river, as the water was running a bit high and fast. There were no log jams, and no sweepers of note.

It was exciting to be back in the packraft.. though the floating was a bit on the “mellow” side without a lot of excitement. Which was perhaps for the best, as the water was pretty cold.

We were a bit concerned about how free the Chena would be of ice, but the only ice we encountered was broken up and floating in a slough.

I did a beached seal imitation on some of the larger pieces..


Most of the float we just bobbed along, as the Chena was amazingly free of any sweepers and other river related excitement.

The float was pretty relaxed but was great for getting me in the mood for summer floating – hopefully some I will get some fun packraft trips in this summer!

Mid winter I picked up a new floating jacket with seals on the wrists and neck and had been wondering how well it would keep out water when I end up swimming – so I took several test swims and it did amazing well, keeping most of the water out. After jumping into the river three times I had a small amount, perhaps 1 to 2 cups, but was mostly dry, so the new top combined with my old float pants is quite a success!

More pictures for the photo inclined:

First float of the season

Fun on Carlo Creek

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

I should preface this post by saying this is written by a guest, my wife Nancy. Thus, there are probably no spelling errors, all the words are used correctly, and it makes more sense than usual. But don’t worry – the spelling and grammar mistakes will return in the next post!

Nancy here… I decided to write up a great trip from this summer, in part to show that Jay really does stay home with the kids sometimes while I have adventures. Alas, some of those “adventures” are business trips for work, but this one was spectacular enough to help make up for that.
We (Tom, Marsh, and I – note that I have joint custody of our friends) blatantly borrowed our itinerary from Ed Plumb’s blog Who could resist a trip named the Coffee and Pizza Traverse? The trip was a hike up the Carlo Creek drainage, starting at Milepost 224 on the Parks Highway, crossing over a high pass, dropping down to the Nenana River, and packrafting back to the starting trip. It sounded too good to pass up – and for the most part, it was.
We were grateful that parking at Panorama Pizza turned out to be ok with the owner, although he was most definitely not serving coffee mid-morning when we showed up. However, our exploration of river access proved to be more challenging. The folks at the private lodge across the road clearly remembered chasing the most recent pack-rafters off their property, and were most emphatically having no more of that, no matter how quiet and low-impact the trespassers might be. So we scouted an alternate takeout a couple of miles south.
The hike itself was everything promised, and more. An ATV trail provided easy access to the meadows above treeline. There were, miraculously, no bugs, perhaps due to the hot July sun. We followed the creek as it gradually grew smaller and smaller, and made a couple of crossings that were probably unnecessary, but overall found easy walking. That first night, we camped right at the top of the drainage, comfortable in soft grass, but surrounded by imposing peaks and ridges.




The next morning we hiked up the pass. It was steep, with a large lingering snowfield, but still generally easy going. A caribou was even kind enough to pose for us. It was when we reached the top that we faced the biggest challenge of the trip. Ed had described the descent as “steep and rocky” with “serious scrambling.” He wasn’t kidding. The boulder fields were almost vertical, and all seemingly poised on the point of creating massive rock avalanches. Unencumbered, the scrambling might have been fun. With a fairly massive pack, it was less than fun for me, and downright scary for Marsh, who doesn’t like heights. It was also extremely slow. Still, we eventually made it down to easier ground, and enjoyed more ambling over grassy hill slopes on our way to the Nenana.

The very last part of the descent was also very steep, but not at all scary, since it was densely forested. We sang loudly (and badly) to the bears as we did a sort of controlled fall through the underbrush.




The bugs were fierce at the river, but we got underway quickly, and happily floated for about an hour and a half in the calm and relatively swift waters to the Parks Highway. At this point, it was getting late, and our stomachs were calling for pizza. The wind was coming up, too, and the water ahead was reputed to be choppy to start with. We decided to take out and hitch the last few miles back. I was the designated female for this role (Tom resents this, but a 6-foot-5 male just doesn’t get rides) and quickly retrieved the car.

The pizza? Delicious, but the slowest service known to mankind. Still, we were very grateful for the free parking, and for an incredible trip.

Trips For Next Summer..

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

While coming back from a day float on Brushkana Creek, I noticed that the hills above the Denali Highway in that area looked quite hikable.

Earlier this summer I had asked someone about how interesting Brushkana was to float, and was distracted with stories about how beautiful the upper Jack River is.  It appears it would be a easy 2 day or hard 1 day hike into the the upper Jack River from the Denali Highway, from which one could packraft down the Jack River or continue hiking over to Carabou Pass and packraft down the Chutlitna River.  

A lazy float on the Brushkana

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

On a rainy overcast Sunday afternoon Tom, Marsh, and I headed down to the Brushkana Creek off of the Denali Highway to camp out and in the morning hopefully go for a pack rafting day trip. The Alpacka forums had a post about the Brushkana Creek, and it seemed it might have the ideal combination of fairly low volume interesting whitewater that would be fun to practice on. In the ideal world there would be a lowish volume class III in my backyard here in Fairbanks to splash around in, but alas, life is not perfect.

Our basic plan was to cache our bikes along one of the many ATV trails that lead from the Denali Highway to the Nenana and camp at the Brushkana Creek campground. In the morning we would float the Brushkana down to the Nenana, hike back to the road, cache our gear, and bike back to the campground.

The drive down to Cantwell from Fairbanks was uneventful and 3 hours or so later we arrived at BLM’s Brushkana Creek campground and setup tents just as the daylight left. After a quick supper and several beers we hit the sack – oh the joys of car camping!

After a nice and quite night we woke to a fairly nice day, and breakfast and were off! Tom had not adjusted well to the whole car camping idea and ate his cereal out of a bag, super lightweight style. He did take me up of my offer of the cold frappachino though.

The Brushkana was quite fun right off the bat with a small rapids right next to the campground. The first 45 minutes or so was constant class II fun – lots of dodging rocks and a few smallish drops. The river guides I found online suggested it was class II+. It seemed very similar to Windy Creek in difficulty which most folks seem to think is class II, so the “+” bit was lost on me. Perhaps at higher water levels it might be harder. There are no stream gauges in the direct vicinity, but the gauge at Healy on the Nenana said a little over 9ft. A bit more water would have smoothed out some of the shallower spots but all in all it was quite fun.

The bouncing and splashing continued pretty much no stop until near where the creek joined the Monohan.

The creek was an wonderful confidence builder, as the water is not very deep and there was a constant barrage of things to maneuver around.

Its hard to tell from these photos but there is quite a nice game trail along the bank. Its possible to walk back up stream to re-float any of the particularly interesting sections.

The colors where quite beautiful.

We appeared to be on the tail end of moose hunting season, and as a result did no see much wildlife of any sort.

In the last mile or so before Brushkana hits the Monohan the river slows down a lot.

Once we hit the Monohan we it became a classic boreal forest float, complete with sweepers.

After bobbing around for a while the Monohan joined the Nenana and our nice clear water was replaced by silty gray water. The current was a bit faster on the Nenana but we could have used a bit more water as it was quite shallow in sections. The Nenana was quite beautiful and if we had more time it would have been nice to extend the float on it.

Just before our take out we surprised a small flock of swans which flew right over head. Except for an owl this was our sole wild life sighting.

We reached our take out after floating around 3 and a half hours. Tom was very happy to put his new floating jacket’s snack storage system though its paces. We found a very well used ATV trail and headed back to where we cached our bikes.

The walk back to the road was surprisingly pleasant, and wonderful hiking. In berry season it appeared this area has wonderful blue berries, as I saw a huge number of blueberry bushes. Alas, it was well past the ideal berry picking time, and they were too soft.

After a quick mile or so hike we were back at the road, cached our packs, hopped on our bikes, and zipped back to the campground and the truck. The total distance was round 14 miles, 5 or so of which were on the road, with a round trip time of 5 to 6 hours including the bike shuttle, making for a excellent half day float. If we where to do it again I think I would
have walked up stream of the Denali Highway a ways and then put in to extent the fun bits. All in all a highly recommended float, with lots of bouncy rock dodging but nothing super hard. If one was super lazy one could just do the rapids right near the campground and have quite a bit of fun, as the trails along the bank seemed to be very good walking.

This is the last float of the year for me, I think. Now, if only it would snow more I could start skiing!

Splashy fun on Windy Creek

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

Two days after returning from Ireland I was invited out for a day trip on Windy Creek by Tom and Marsh. Windy Creek is a nice day packrafting trip, with a 5 mile or so hike and a 10 mile or so float, two thirds of which is on Windy Creek. Windy Creek is a fairly low volume creek with lots of class II fun – lots of dodging boulders and a couple of smallish drops. Packrafters had been talking about the fun floating on Windy Creek on the Alpacka forum and on various blogs, and so I was quite eager to join in the fun.

The trip starts in Cantwell, near the airstrip by the railroad tracks. From there we followed a well developed trail marked by a huge number of orange “RS2477” markers put in by the National Park Service. The fall colors where out and it was very scenic.

After a mile or so we turned off the main trail (Tom and Marsh had done this before and said the main trail quickly turned into a huge mud fest) and took a side trail down to Windy Creek.

Once we reached Windy Creek we walked up stream on a mix of human and game trails.

We skirted above one large rock face and where rewarded by some great views up Windy Creek and wonderful views of the surrounding hillside.

The hiking was pretty spectacular, with good views and not a lot of brush. This hike really made me want to do the classic hike up Windy Creek to Sanctuary River hike into the park.

After about 2 hours or so we hit our put in spot, near a National Park Service patrol cabin. Alas, the cabin is not for the use of the public, but is used by the parks winter rangers while on patrol.

It has the classic old school cabin bear proofing – window shutters and a outside door covered with nails.

After a quick lunch we put in and the floating began. All the float on Windy Creek was quite fun – nothing all that hard but lots of little rapids for playing around in.

Eventually Windy Creek dumps into the Jack River and the float turned into a very mellow “bob along” float. The Jack was very flat and uneventful. After a very relaxing hour or so on the jack we hit the Nenana and took out. I biked back to the start of our hike while Marsh and Tom picked berries.

All and all quite a fun day trip with a lot of Class II bouncing to practice on.